Structural Insulated Panel (SIP) Manufacturer
Structural
Insulated Panel (SIP) Manufacturer
Manufacturer
of Structural Insulated Panels (SIPs)
Copyright
2008-2011 Foam Laminates of Vermont, a division of Energy Smart Building,
Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Supporting the Green Building Industry.



Next,
start installing roof panels from the lines. Establish the over hang and measure
4' back up the roof line and snap a line parallel to the eave to work from.
Use a plywood template to mimic the overhang profile. This is very useful
to establish this original working line. Don't forget the thickness of the
SIP walls when you set the overhangs. Foam Laminates of Vermont reccomends
cutting the eave edges of the SIPs before they are installed. This is because
cutting SIPs in place can be quite difficult. The SIP pattern for a roof is
generally staggered to eliminate running seams. Staggering the SIPs is good
construction practice; it helps make the roof system even stiffer.
SIPs should be installed with gaps between each of them as defined by the
sheathing labels. If SIPs are butted tight to one another you will experience
shingle ridging due to expansion. Fasten the SIPs with nails on 8" centers
as they cross timbers. The pole barn nails should penetrate the timbers by
approximately 2". Be sure you use the correct nails for any given SIP
panel thickness. Nail the SIPs until the nail heads are set but don't over
drive the nails. Dimples in the roof panels can telegraph through to the finished
roof.
Be gentle when you set the second row of SIPs above the eaves. The long nails
can bend if you put too much pressure on the first course. The peak of the
roof is treated like a beveled joint in most cases. Roof lines with a 12:12
pitch can be joined with a butt joint. A butt joint will require a nailer
to be installed whereas a beveled joint will not need a nailer. Beware of
small strips to be installed at the peak. It is preferable to have a larger
section at the peak with the bevel. If the strip to be installed at the peak
doesn't have enough meat to accept nails well, relocate the strip to a lower
course.
If you are using structural roof panels you should nail and screw all the
splines in at this time, before foaming the joints. 8d nails on 8" centers
are recommended for the interior and exterior.
The roof must now be sealed with expanding foam at all joints. By marking
a drill bit at the depth required to penetrate the foam channel on the SIPs,
you can quickly drill all the holes needed to foam the panels. A bit stop
is an even better choice than the mark on a bit. Use a bit which is slightly
larger in diameter than the foam application tube. This allows air to escape
while you foam. Drilling and foaming every 8" on all joints is required.
Drill directly into the joint between SIPs and through the spline if there
is one. In warm weather a short "two MISSISSIPPI" count shot of
foam is sufficient to fill the cavity. Longer counts may be needed in cold
weather. Two people moving along can cover a home quickly. Two people works
well. You are less likely to miss foaming drilled holes if you work in pairs.
Foaming is messy business. Use rubber or disposable latex gloves when possible.

When
using structural roof panels, it's best to use a crane. The weight of these
SIPs requires a crane to assure safe installation. To rig SIPs for hoisting,
consultation with a crane operator is recommended. It is further recommended
that two straps with hooks be used to lift the SIPs. Hooking a strap over
the O.S.B. edge at the center of each of the 4' sides of the SIP and fastening
the hook with a nail has proven to be both safe and effective.
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