Structural Insulated Panel (SIP) Manufacturer
(800) 545-6290
info@foamlaminates.com
info@foamlaminates.com
Manufacturer of Structural Insulated Panels (SIPs)
Copyright 2008 Foam Laminates of Vermont. All Rights Reserved.
Supporting the Green Building Industry.
Copyright 2008 Foam Laminates of Vermont. All Rights Reserved.
Supporting the Green Building Industry.
Next, start installing roof panels from the lines. Establish the over hang and measure 4' back up the roof line and snap a line parallel to the eave to work from. Use a plywood template to mimic the overhang profile. This is very useful to establish this original working line. Don't forget the thickness of the SIP walls when you set the overhangs. Foam Laminates of Vermont reccomends cutting the eave edges of the SIPs before they are installed. This is because cutting SIPs in place can be quite difficult. The SIP pattern for a roof is generally staggered to eliminate running seams. Staggering the SIPs is good construction practice; it helps make the roof system even stiffer.
SIPs should be installed with gaps between each of them as defined by the sheathing labels. If SIPs are butted tight to one another you will experience shingle ridging due to expansion. Fasten the SIPs with nails on 8" centers as they cross timbers. The pole barn nails should penetrate the timbers by approximately 2". Be sure you use the correct nails for any given SIP panel thickness. Nail the SIPs until the nail heads are set but don't over drive the nails. Dimples in the roof panels can telegraph through to the finished roof.
Be gentle when you set the second row of SIPs above the eaves. The long nails can bend if you put too much pressure on the first course. The peak of the roof is treated like a beveled joint in most cases. Roof lines with a 12:12 pitch can be joined with a butt joint. A butt joint will require a nailer to be installed whereas a beveled joint will not need a nailer. Beware of small strips to be installed at the peak. It is preferable to have a larger section at the peak with the bevel. If the strip to be installed at the peak doesn't have enough meat to accept nails well, relocate the strip to a lower course.
If you are using structural roof panels you should nail and screw all the splines in at this time, before foaming the joints. 8d nails on 8" centers are recommended for the interior and exterior.
The roof must now be sealed with expanding foam at all joints. By marking a drill bit at the depth required to penetrate the foam channel on the SIPs, you can quickly drill all the holes needed to foam the panels. A bit stop is an even better choice than the mark on a bit. Use a bit which is slightly larger in diameter than the foam application tube. This allows air to escape while you foam. Drilling and foaming every 8" on all joints is required. Drill directly into the joint between SIPs and through the spline if there is one. In warm weather a short "two MISSISSIPPI" count shot of foam is sufficient to fill the cavity. Longer counts may be needed in cold weather. Two people moving along can cover a home quickly. Two people works well. You are less likely to miss foaming drilled holes if you work in pairs. Foaming is messy business. Use rubber or disposable latex gloves when possible.
SIPs should be installed with gaps between each of them as defined by the sheathing labels. If SIPs are butted tight to one another you will experience shingle ridging due to expansion. Fasten the SIPs with nails on 8" centers as they cross timbers. The pole barn nails should penetrate the timbers by approximately 2". Be sure you use the correct nails for any given SIP panel thickness. Nail the SIPs until the nail heads are set but don't over drive the nails. Dimples in the roof panels can telegraph through to the finished roof.
Be gentle when you set the second row of SIPs above the eaves. The long nails can bend if you put too much pressure on the first course. The peak of the roof is treated like a beveled joint in most cases. Roof lines with a 12:12 pitch can be joined with a butt joint. A butt joint will require a nailer to be installed whereas a beveled joint will not need a nailer. Beware of small strips to be installed at the peak. It is preferable to have a larger section at the peak with the bevel. If the strip to be installed at the peak doesn't have enough meat to accept nails well, relocate the strip to a lower course.
If you are using structural roof panels you should nail and screw all the splines in at this time, before foaming the joints. 8d nails on 8" centers are recommended for the interior and exterior.
The roof must now be sealed with expanding foam at all joints. By marking a drill bit at the depth required to penetrate the foam channel on the SIPs, you can quickly drill all the holes needed to foam the panels. A bit stop is an even better choice than the mark on a bit. Use a bit which is slightly larger in diameter than the foam application tube. This allows air to escape while you foam. Drilling and foaming every 8" on all joints is required. Drill directly into the joint between SIPs and through the spline if there is one. In warm weather a short "two MISSISSIPPI" count shot of foam is sufficient to fill the cavity. Longer counts may be needed in cold weather. Two people moving along can cover a home quickly. Two people works well. You are less likely to miss foaming drilled holes if you work in pairs. Foaming is messy business. Use rubber or disposable latex gloves when possible.
When using structural roof panels, it's best to use a crane. The weight of these SIPs requires a crane to assure safe installation. To rig SIPs for hoisting, consultation with a crane operator is recommended. It is further recommended that two straps with hooks be used to lift the SIPs. Hooking a strap over the O.S.B. edge at the center of each of the 4' sides of the SIP and fastening the hook with a nail has proven to be both safe and effective.
About Foam Laminates
Contact
Request Information
Printable Brochure
Vermont Frames
Building Green
Energy Star
Energy Efficient Loans
Green Tax Credits
Why Build with SIPs?
More Comfortable
Stronger & Safer
Faster to Construct
More Resource Efficient
Healthier Living
Save Money
Wave of the Future
Greater Energy Savings
Straighter Walls
More Design Friendly
Installation Manual
Pre-Delivery Preparation
Delivery & Getting Started
Wall Panel Installation
Roof Panel Installation
Products
Structural Panels
Hybrid SIPs
Timber Frames
Anatomy of a SIP
Components
Facings
Core Materials
Adhesives
How are they made?
History
Introduction
Forest Lab & Frank L. Wright
Alden B. Dow
Koopers Co. & Alside
The Resurgence
Trade Shows
FAQ
Why Choose Us?
Where Do I Start?
Why not Stick Frames?
Do You Build in Canada?
Architects & Builders
External Links
Contact
Request Information
Printable Brochure
Vermont Frames
Building Green
Energy Star
Energy Efficient Loans
Green Tax Credits
Why Build with SIPs?
More Comfortable
Stronger & Safer
Faster to Construct
More Resource Efficient
Healthier Living
Save Money
Wave of the Future
Greater Energy Savings
Straighter Walls
More Design Friendly
Installation Manual
Pre-Delivery Preparation
Delivery & Getting Started
Wall Panel Installation
Roof Panel Installation
Products
Structural Panels
Hybrid SIPs
Timber Frames
Anatomy of a SIP
Components
Facings
Core Materials
Adhesives
How are they made?
History
Introduction
Forest Lab & Frank L. Wright
Alden B. Dow
Koopers Co. & Alside
The Resurgence
Trade Shows
FAQ
Why Choose Us?
Where Do I Start?
Why not Stick Frames?
Do You Build in Canada?
Architects & Builders
External Links
